Ricarda

Why three days are simply not enough

Olhão: where every day writes its own favourite chapter

Olhão is not a place to rush through. The real Portuguese way of life only unfolds once you slow down and arrive at your own pace.

  • Old town and indulgence: Wander through the white labyrinth of lanes, feel the history underfoot on the traditional mosaic paving (calçada), and browse the little boutiques, the church and the museum. Have your bica(espresso) right in the thick of street life and treat yourself to Portuguese pastries. My favourites are the natas(custard tarts) and the bolo de Berlim!
  • Market bustle by the harbour: Stroll along the waterfront promenade to the distinctive red market halls. Lively and full of atmosphere in the mornings, the big Saturday market turns into a real feast for the senses.
  • Nature and looking up: Listen to the clattering high above the rooftops. How many stork nests can you count on your walk? Right on the doorstep, the Ria Formosa Natural Park and the salt pans invite you on peaceful walks, with flamingos, rare birds and shellfish gatherers on the mudflats for company.

Ilha da Armona: a South Seas feeling

Even the ferry crossing sets the mood: past sandbanks with seabirds, oyster nets and old shipwrecks, you glide across to a true island paradise. Armona charms with its mix of traditional fishing village and colourful holiday settlement.

  • Island life: Meander through the car-free lanes, grab your parasol and a picnic, and spend carefree beach days on the warm sand.
  • Beach walks: Walk for hours along the seemingly endless Atlantic beach and keep an eye out for the prettiest shells (always bear the tides in mind).
  • Restaurant in the dunes: Enjoy international cuisine on the shady terrace.

Practical tip for the crossing: The ferries leave from the central pedestrian promenade in Olhão. Tickets are sold at the ticket office from 30 minutes before departure. The timetables are clearly displayed there, so make a note of the return times straight away!

Ilha da Culatra: authentic fishing-village idyll

Culatra takes you to an unspoilt corner of the Algarve where life still follows the rhythm of the sea. In the historic fishing community of Farol and in the island village, you can watch the locals at close quarters as they go about their daily work on the boats and nets.

  • Local cuisine: Stop in at the rustic tavernas and try the freshly caught fish or the famous clams. It doesn't get any fresher.
  • Wide beaches: Miles of natural, unspoilt sandy beaches offer wonderful space and peace, even in the summer months. It is a place where it is easy to forget everyday life, and where you will want to spend several days in a row.

Fuzeta: a hidden gem for food lovers and beach fans

The idyllic fishing village of Fuzeta has kept its wonderfully unhurried, authentic charm. Clocks tick a little more slowly here, which makes it the perfect place to spend a relaxed day off the beaten track.

  • Feasting by the harbour: In the small, authentic restaurants around the market hall, grilled fish is served straight from the boat. Simple, fresh and incredibly delicious!
  • White sandy beach right in the village: Enjoy a refreshing dip in the sheltered Ria Formosa and relax in the shade of a parasol.
  • Island dream, Fuzeta-Mar: A short boat trip takes you across to the offshore sandbank island. There you will find miles of fine sandy beach, warm, shallow water on the lagoon side and the expanse of the open Atlantic on the sea side, perfect for taking a deep breath and soaking up the sun.
  • In the footsteps of Lost in Fuseta: Stroll through the quiet, peaceful lanes down to the picturesque harbour. Fans of the bestselling books will recognise the setting at once from the popular German TV crime series featuring Inspector Leander Lost.

Practical tip for your outing: You can easily reach Fuzeta without a car by bus or train. I would, however, recommend walking there through the salt pans directly from Olhão. The route is also good for cycling.

Tavira: the elegant pearl of the eastern Algarve

Tavira is the ideal destination for a varied day out: a stylish, lively town where historic townhouses, a young café culture and the picturesque banks of the River Gilão blend charmingly.

  • Bridge and old town: Stroll through the elegant lanes of both halves of the town, picturesquely linked across the river by the old Roman Bridge (Ponte Romana).
  • Fado that gives you goosebumps: Experience Portuguese longing first-hand at an atmospheric fado concert in the historic setting of the "fado church", Igreja da Misericórdia (Mon–Fri 3.15 pm, Sat 5.00 pm).
  • Island dream, Ilha de Tavira: Take the ferry from the town quay across to the island. Here you will find miles of fine sandy beaches, gentle dunes and the famous historic anchor cemetery (Cemitério das Âncoras).

Practical tip for your outing: From Olhão you can reach Tavira comfortably in about 25 minutes by car, or directly by regional train. Trains run regularly and drop you in the heart of the town.

Cacela Velha: picture-postcard idyll and panoramic views

This tiny, history-steeped coastal village sits like a box at the theatre above the eastern end of the Ria Formosa. It is a magical place that shows you traditional Portugal at its most beautiful.

  • History and views: Wind your way through the quiet lanes of whitewashed houses to the historic church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção. From the walls of the old fort (Fortaleza), you can enjoy one of the most breathtaking panoramas in the whole Algarve, taking in the lagoon, the dunes and the ocean.
  • The way to the dream beach: At low tide, walk straight across the shallow, crystal-clear fringes of the lagoon to the Atlantic beach, or simply be ferried across by one of the little fishing boats from Fábrica.
  • Swimming and pure nature: Look forward to the finest sand, clear water and undisturbed hours far from mass tourism. (Once there, remember to keep an eye on the tides and the weather.)

Practical tip for your outing: From Olhão, Cacela Velha takes around 30 to 35 minutes by car or Uber. Alternatively, take the regional train to Vila Nova de Cacela station and walk the last short stretch.

Praia do Barril: a little train and a sandy beach

A perfect day out for families, beach lovers and explorers, combining nature, fascinating history and pure relaxation by the ocean.

  • Across the lagoon: Cross the Ria Formosa on a gentle stroll, or hop on the nostalgic narrow-gauge train (Comboio do Barril). Keep an eye out along the way for crabs, wading birds and the changing tides.
  • The fascinating anchor cemetery: Right in the dunes lies the impressive Cemitério das Âncoras. Hundreds of iron anchors standing deep in the sand serve as silent witnesses to the former tradition of tuna fishing.
  • Beach bliss and an evening in Tavira: Relax on the wide, fine-sand beach, go for a swim in the Atlantic or walk along the water's edge for what feels like for ever.
  • My tip: Round off the day with dinner in the cosy lanes of Tavira's old town, before taking the regional train back to Olhão in comfort. (Water taxi or ferry at the north-east of the island.)

Practical tip for your outing: From Olhão, the starting point at Pedras d'el Rei (near Tavira) takes about 25 to 30 minutes by car, Uber or bus to Pedras d'El Rei (plus a 1 km walk). A small footbridge leads directly across the gentle fringes of the Ria Formosa.